Peridot, pronounced pair-uh-doe (French) - - from the Arabic word
faridat meaning "gem--is the August birthstone which it shares
with sardonyx. So those Virgo and Libra customers should take special
note of Peridot's many possibilities. For example, suppose you are
describing color alternatives to a customer. You might point out that
emeralds are not the only green stones. The Egyptians used Peridot as
a gem as early as 1500 B.C. It was considered the "gem of the
sun" and was highly prized. Peridot is often called the
"evening emerald." You might mention as well that this
yellow-green gemstone is in the olivine family, so named for its
olive color.
SOURCES: The most important deposits are in the Red Sea on the
volcanic island of St. John where they have been mined for 3500
years. But these mines have been nationalized since 1958 and it
appears that little or no mining is currently taking place. Most
stones used today come from Burma ( which is the source of the
largest recorded cut Peridot --319 carats-- now in the Smithsonian),
and the U.S.
With the cessation of Peridot from the Red Sea deposit, those at San
Carlos in Arizona have gained in importance. The San Carlos Apache
Reservation is in Gila County, Arizona, and the main deposit of
Peridot is known as Peridot Mesa. Exclusive rights to mining are held
by various Apache families and it is not always easy to assign a
specific stone to a particular deposit. It is interesting to note
that the San Carlos Peridot, like some others, contains a trace of
nickel which may play a part in its coloration. Pakistan: According
to Robert Weldon, G.G., in the five years since Peridot was
discovered in Pakistan, the market has become accustomed to the
stupendous sizes and extraordinary colors from this source. But
dwindling supplies and a tribal war over control of the mines raises
uncertainties about future availability. The attraction of Pakistani
Peridot is without question. Facet-grade crystals often yield
double-digit carat weights in cut stones and a few weigh more than
2,000 carats. Crystal clarity is excellent for cutting. And the deep
green 'accented by yellow or blue' stimulates demand. But the region
where the Peridot is mined lies in extremely inhospitable, dangerous
terrain 15,000 feet up in the Kashmir region of the Himalayas. The
weather leaves the site accessible only for two or three months in
summer, and the site is altogether off limits to foreigners. The
long-term future is uncertain also. Clean gems of good color account
for about only 2% of Pakistan's production, and high-quality material
is being depleted. Lower supply could mean you'll pay more next year.
High-grade Peridot from Pakistan already can fetch 20 times more than
Peridot from other localities. Fine-quality Pakistani Peridot
weighing under 5 carats is $60 per carat wholesale, for example. For
gems larger than 20 carats, per-carat prices can rise as high as $300.
THE COMPOSITION: The olivine group has a series from fayalite
at one end to forsterite at the other. Fayalite contains iron where
forsterite contains magnesium. Stones composed of an excess of 15%
iron tend to be "muddy" in appearance. Chromium spinel
crystals cause the "peppering" effect which greatly
decreases the value of the material. Peer into the depths of a
Peridot and you'll almost always be rewarded with an interesting view
of a microscopic lily-pad inclusion. It's a distinctive feature that
helps to separate Peridot from natural and man-made glass simulants.
It's called a lily-pad inclusion because of its resemblance to the
aquatic plant. Gemologically, it's a disc-like stress fracture caused
by crystals of another mineral in Peridot, such as Chromite, Spinel
or Biotite.
SELLING: When selling Peridot, be reminded that this stone is
relatively soft (6.5 Moh) and should be spared rugged, regular
wearing if mounted in rings. Peridot increases dramatically in prices
as the size increases over 3 carats. Peridot is extremely sensitive
to rapid temperature changes, such as dipping in cold solution after
soldering. Finally, setters must remember Peridots tend to burst
under great stress and they can easily lose their polish if they come
in contact with commonly used hydrochloric or sulphuric acid.
Nonetheless, this "gem of the sun" will give many years of
wearing pleasure if cared for properly.
TRENDS: Peridot green is showing up again in blouses, shoes,
handbags, watches and jewelry. A few years back, the shade was a big
deal in fashion, thanks to Prada and other fashion houses. This time
around you're less likely to see it in a dress or suit, but it makes
for a great accent. Peridot also blends well with, surprise, all the
neutrals American women continue to rely on for office and everyday
wear. Oprah donned Peridot beads for a recent cover of her eponymous
magazine, using them as an accent for the season's popular white
shirt. Against her dark skin, the color looks terrific. Prada paired
a silk shantung blouse in the color, which it calls 'fern,' with a
neutral jacket. The touch of color added dash to a subdued look.
Vogue featured a Bruno Frisoni Peridot green shoe with a black front
accent in one of its recent issues. But it's the use of Peridot in
watches and jewelry that jewelers can really celebrate. Now that the
ladies who lunch have their pink and blue watches, AquaMarin, the
Swiss watch maker, decided to launch a Peridot green strap, sometimes
harmonized with Peridot green stones and aquamarine colored faces.
It's one way to encourage your customers to don the fashionable
shade. Of course, the best way is through jewelry featuring the gem itself.
